BRIM

The first encounter with Rio took place, where else than, at the airport. I will probably never forget that feeling of heavy wet and hot air. That was my first encounter with the tropical climate.  With our 10-month-old daughter in my arms, a mountain of suitcases and our traveller cat (who has crossed the hemisphere), husband and I headed for our five-month Brazilian adventure. As far as the climate is concerned, it is necessary to say that we needed several weeks of adaptation to such temperatures.

Already during our first ride in Rio, towards our home at the Barra Hotel in the neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, known as Brazilian L.A., we could feel the exceptional atmosphere of the city that never sleeps. The taxi driver immediately told us about favelas, poor and dangerous quarters, which are the recognisable symbol of Rio. Favelas are neighbourhoods with the houses of the poorest citizens of Rio. These houses are sometimes only made of stacked bricks, they don’t have any windows but curtains or covers instead. People here live in difficult conditions. There is a very large number of people in a small area, and this favours the development of crime. Favelas are known sites of drug crime and the worst forms of prostitution. Several times I drove in a taxi on the edge of the two favelas because the taxi driver wanted to shorten the trip claiming that this was not dangerous. That is a picture of a bunch of barefoot and skinny children running in dusty streets, obese women and stern looks of men sitting in some workshops permanently stuck in my memory. They live their lives and don’t like to be seen as an attraction. Unfortunately, tourism has in this case also crossed the border of humanity. Today you can order tourist routes to some more peaceful favelas. But let’s leave the favelas and head to the ocean.

Since our home was some 50 yards from the beach of Barra, we were there all the time. Interesting is how the Carioca (Rio residents) spend their weekends. They go to the beaches and spend the whole day swimming, playing with children, drinking beer and having fun. These are really large families, with as many as three or four generations. Carioca are happy and well-intention people. They are attentive and very kind. I have to admit that I have never before encountered the warmth that these people emit. I guess it’s a characteristic of the Latin people, and I will relate it with the beauty of the environment where they live. Constant heat, sunshine and ocean fantasy are enough to make most people happy.

Swimming in the ocean is a big challenge, especially for people who do not live here, because the waves are very powerful and can roll over an adult person. During some days it is forbidden to go swimming because of the power of waves and currents. I was thrilled by the ocean noise with which I met for the first time in my life. These were such powerful blows that could even wake me up during those quiet mornings. Morning along the Atlantic in Rio had a special charm. Through the misty veil loomed the city and the ocean retreated at low leaving behind broken shells, driftwood and the occasional obligatory flip-flops. Speaking of flip-flops, it’s something that Cariocas wear as soon as they can walk. Interestingly, Brazilians produce high quality and cheap flip-flops. Nothing else is worth putting on because of the sand. Flip-flops are the most practical and easiest to clean when leaving the beach.

Along the beach of Barra, where we lived, Rio is famous for several huge sandy beaches: the most populous and most famous Copacabana, Ipanema about which Sinatra sang and Prainha. Each of them has its recognizable life. There are simple bars along the beaches, where you have to try coconut milk served and drank directly from a coconut. Also, there is the indispensable açaí. These are black-purple berries that are fruit of a palm tree. Served chilled and minced like ice cream. Açaí has many healing and detoxifying properties and everyone adores it. When it comes to tropical fruit, in Rio you can truly try real flavors of mango, pineapple, banana, avocado and other fruits. Their taste is fantastic and has nothing to do with tropical fruit that is sold in Europe. Even in appearance they are not the same, let alone taste. Succulence and aroma of these fruits is unique and long remembered.

As for beaches and the offer, there is also the globo, simple snack that can be purchased for one real (Brazilian currency) on the streets and beaches of the Rio. It is sold by street vendors who carry it in big bags, which is a testimony to its popularity. I would also mention a nutritional specificity of the resident of Rio. They eat a lot of meat, so there are numerous restaurants called the churrascaria in which the most diverse types of meat are served. These are family restaurants that are visited by large Brazilian families with a dozen or more members. The waiters circulate around the guest tables with huge plates of meat and cut what you choose. The popularity and attendance of these huge restaurants is also witnessed by the fact that for instance on Sunday you need to wait for a free table. But Cariocas have solved this problem by designing a room where families can sit and wait for the table.

When it comes to the most popular alcoholic drink in Rio, along with the cerveja (beer), there is of course the caipirinha, which is made of lime, cachaçe (sugar cane brandy), made of ice and sugar that you can order in all coffees along the many beaches. There is another specificity related to drinks and beaches. When you order a beer, it will be served to you in a small fridge on the beach or in a thermos bottle (a coated container) that keeps it cool while you are sitting at a coffee table. This solution is excellent, because if you keep in mind that 35 degrees Celsius is the usual temperature in Rio, it’s clear what would happen to your drink.

On Saturday mornings in each neighbourhood there are markets where you can find anything you want. The most interesting are fish and shellfish, but also palm fruit and nuts. You can also come across artists, mostly painters, who sell their works. The markets blend smells and colours, crowds of people, tourists and domestic traders. Warmth, welcome and smiles here are a daily constant.

Rio is crawling with tourists, especially at top locations such as Copacabana, the statue of Christ the Redeemer and the Sugarloaf. Christ the Redeemer Statue is located on Corcovado Hill and you can get to it by a combi-taxi. The ride takes about 20 minutes through a tropical forest where monkeys, parrots and unusual vegetation can be seen. As far as plants are concerned, it is interesting that, for example, a flower bird of paradise (strelitzia), which is sold expensively in Europe, is growing in Brazil in the wild, usually near the road. Christ the Redeemer Statue is truly an impressive work, it is 39.6 meters tall and weighs 700 tones. It’s so high that if you stand at its foot during a foggy day you will not see the tip.

Another famous attraction is a cable car running too the top of the Sugar Head and it offers incredible views of Rio and its beauty. Besides, it is a place where monkeys and exotic birds can be seen. During the first days of my stay in Rio I was surprised by great black birds that crossed the sky and looked like pterodactyls. Later, I learned that it was a tesoura᷃o bird from family of seagulls. There is another bird called grande kiskadee, which is very specific to Rio and has a related anecdote. Namely, cariocas use them in bringing up children. They tell their children that they have to be careful how they behave because they are always seen by the bird, because the bird sings the melody bemteevee which in Portuguese means “I’ve seen you”. Among other attractions in Rio de Janeiro you should not miss a visit to the Botanical Garden and the Lage Park.