Copenhagen – the modern fairy tale

Copenhagen – the modern fairy tale

First impression of the Copenhagen was modern, urban, full of youth. Our accommodation in hotel was in the heart of the city, very modern and functional. Just few minutes from famous canal Nyhavn.

Copenhagen is peculiar city because of few things: urban fashion, beautiful people and idea of free town Christiania. First thing you will realise about fashion is that everyone wearing scarfs, because of constantly windy weather. Copenhagen people adore riding bikes, scooters, and skates. Most of them walk regardless of the weather. That makes Copenhagen very lively with abundant of pedestrian arias. What else makes Copenhagen so peculiar? It’s the beauty of their ladies. I really do not remember to see any other European country with so many beautiful women. Tall, slim unique beauty, and of course, coats in pastel colours under which they wear fluttery dresses. Very decent and harmonious fashion stile.    

Copenhagen is the city you can explore and get to know by walking. Unfortunately, it is the best way if you have enough time and you are not bothered by constant wind. One of unavoidable location in Copenhagen is Hans Christian Andersen’s house.

Hans Christian Andersen Musem

This museum will take you to the world of fairy tales, and it will refresh the memory of all characters from your favourite fairy tales: The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Nightingale, The Steadfast Tin Soldier, The Snow Queen, The Little Match Girl, and of course, The Little Mermaid. 

 

 

The Little Mermaid

The Little Mermaid is rare literary character who got her statue. The bronze statue of Little Mermaid by Edvard Eriksen is displayed on a rock by the waterside at the angelinie promenade. The statue is one of the most popular location for tourist and it is icon of Copenhagen. Pity to say, in recent decades it has become a popular target for defacement by vandals and political activists.

 

Nyhavn, what in Danish means New Harbour, is 17-th century waterfront and one of the most famous districts in Copenhagen. It is great place for enjoying your favourite coffee flavour or lunch at some terrasse restaurant or just enjoy the sun. Colourful facade of townhouses and bars are recognizable symbol of Copenhagen. The canal harbours many historical wooden ships what also gave special charm to Nyhavn. At the end of the Nyhavn there is Memorial anchor, the monument commemorating Danish officers and sailors in service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied Forces, who lost their lives during World War II.

Nyhavn

One of favourite tourist destination in Copenhagen is Freetown Christiania, in the past anarchistic hippy commune and today just sad shadow of idea of the free town. It is an international community and commune of about 900 residents, established in 1971 in a squatted military area. Since then it has been a source of controversy. Cannabis trade there was tolerated by authorities until 2004. Since then, relations between Christiania and Danish authorities have been strained. And finally, at the beginning of the 2010th, the situation has been “normalized” better said unnormalized and today Christiania is under Danish law. So, Christiania’s dream of becoming Denmark’s hippy paradise at the end, did not realised. Today the neighbourhood of Christiania and her hippy community is beset by problems of their identity and future. Intolerant local authority, police, and tourist disturbing everyday life. It was “a weed smoking Disneyland” and of course, by the time mass tourism arrived, Christiania become victim of her own success. With mass tourism rent prices started to grow and old hippie residents couldn’t afford it anymore. Some of them left the Christiania. Most of the old residents today say that tourism is killing Christiania, and that no one likes feeling like they are spectacle, like in a zoo. More about life in Christiania and about idea of that stile of living you can find in Per Smidl autobiographical novel about life in Christiania named Wagon 537 Christiania.  

Free Town Christiania

Today in Christiania you can find elegant restaurant and bars. There is huge open market with a lot hand made things, especially made from wood. Later that day, our cab driver told us a little bit more about Christiania during 80s when he was living there. He said the idea soon became commercial, and lost the soul of project because of rich people, solicitors, and doctors, were buying apartments in Christiania and that change her. That period probably was beginning of the end of liberation and freedom, peace, and love in Christiania. Today it is just mass tourism and a police patrols tree time a day what proves that the idea of a free town has failed.

 

One-day trip to MalmöMalmo

Once you are in Copenhagen it is shame not to visit Malmö. Easily accessible by the train that pass by the Öresund Bridge, combined railway and motorway bridge. It connects two countries and metropolitan areas. Where the bridge finishes, train continues through undersea tunnel. The Öresund bridge is important because it connects the road and rail networks of the Scandinavian Peninsula with those of Central and Western Europe. A data cable also makes the bridge the backbone of internet data transmission between central Europe and Sweden (and, prior to 2016 also Finland). We spend half day in Malmö, just to feel a bit of Sweden spirit. It was very cloudy and windy day. Once again. We spend it in main square and had a lovely lunch in local restaurant.   

 

Gibraltar – the home of the only wild monkeys in Europe

Gibraltar – the home of the only wild monkeys in Europe

During our vacation in Andalusia, we decided to visit Gibraltar. Impressive the Rock of Gibraltar, also known as The Rock, left us breathless. It is the cliff that dominates vistas of Gibraltar and the place where you have to be at list ones in a lifetime.

Gibraltar is most known as home of Barbary apes. The apes are a species oftailless monkeys called Barbary macacues, the only wild monkeys in Europe today. That species also inhabit Algeria and Morocco. Today at Gibraltar live around 160 monkeys. They are used to and accepted people in their everyday life. They will pose for photos, jump on a car, beg for food or even try to steal something from you if there is a chance. Better keep an eye on your bags. Local people will always warn you about monkeys, but they are really friendly and calm animals.  

When you walk to The Rock, you will have one of most amazing view of the sea and the city. Here you can visit St. Michael’ cave. It is limestone cave, located on the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. Inside The Rock of Gibraltar there are more than 150 caves, but St. Michael’s cave is the most popular with about one million visitors per year.

You can walk through Nature Reserve and enjoy the wild life of monkeys, diverse vegetation and beautiful views. At the foot of The Rock you will find the charming city. Today the city of Gibraltar is home of around 35 000 people. It is multicultural, modern and very liberal like any other English city. Here you can find numbers of great international restaurants. For lunch we chose the Argentinian restaurant and enjoyed delicious meat.

The large harbour of the city is one of the most popular places, with a lot of cafes, clubs and restaurants. There you can arrange one of the most unique tour you can experience in Gibraltar. It is the dolphin safari or dolphin adventure. Locals organise boat trip to watch wild dolphins. Sea around Gibraltar is brimming with life because here Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean merge. We saw a lot of dolphins who were swimming right up to the boat. The crew were very knowledgeable, and we learned a lot. They also were very respectful of the dolphins and their environment.

It was unique experience for us and especially for our three-year-old daughter. The dolphin safari was a great tour, we had very beautiful view to The Rock from sea, an amazing sunset at Gibraltar and clear view on Africa.   

The desert of Tabernas – European Wild West

The desert of Tabernas – European Wild West

Desert Tabernas is amazing landscape of eastern Andalusia in the province of Almeria, Spain. It is the only real desert in Europe. If you like nature, if you are fan of western movies and you like historical reanactment events, this is the great place for you. Unteachable nature of Tabernas became the home of film stage village of Fort Bravo. The Fort Bravo village is the oldest

Rio de Janeiro – the city of a thousand faces

Rio de Janeiro – the city of a thousand faces

During 2016, I had the privilege to live in one of the most unique cities in the world for a few months. Although business reasons brought me to the city, I managed to truly experience it and become a part of it. If I would be asked to describe Rio de Janeiro in one sentence, I would say it’s  a mixture of wonderful benevolent people, bright colors, new fragrances, authentic tastes of tropical fruit and ocean noise. My stay in Rio also coincided with the year of the Olympic Games, which gave the whole story an additional charm.

The first encounter with Rio took place, where else than, at the airport. I will probably never forget that feeling of heavy wet and hot air. That was my first encounter with the tropical climate.  With our 10-month-old daughter in my arms, a mountain of suitcases and our traveller cat (who has crossed the hemisphere), husband and I headed for our five-month Brazilian adventure. As far as the climate is concerned, it is necessary to say that we needed several weeks of adaptation to such temperatures.

Already during our first ride in Rio, towards our home at the Barra Hotel in the neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, known as Brazilian L.A., we could feel the exceptional atmosphere of the city that never sleeps. The taxi driver immediately told us about favelas, poor and dangerous quarters, which are the recognisable symbol of Rio. Favelas are neighbourhoods with the houses of the poorest citizens of Rio. These houses are sometimes only made of stacked bricks, they don’t have any windows but curtains or covers instead. People here live in difficult conditions. There is a very large number of people in a small area, and this favours the development of crime. Favelas are known sites of drug crime and the worst forms of prostitution. Several times I drove in a taxi on the edge of the two favelas because the taxi driver wanted to shorten the trip claiming that this was not dangerous. That is a picture of a bunch of barefoot and skinny children running in dusty streets, obese women and stern looks of men sitting in some workshops permanently stuck in my memory. They live their lives and don’t like to be seen as an attraction. Unfortunately, tourism has in this case also crossed the border of humanity. Today you can order tourist routes to some more peaceful favelas. But let’s leave the favelas and head to the ocean.

Since our home was some 50 yards from the beach of Barra, we were there all the time. Interesting is how the Carioca (Rio residents) spend their weekends. They go to the beaches and spend the whole day swimming, playing with children, drinking beer and having fun. These are really large families, with as many as three or four generations. Carioca are happy and well-intention people. They are attentive and very kind. I have to admit that I have never before encountered the warmth that these people emit. I guess it’s a characteristic of the Latin people, and I will relate it with the beauty of the environment where they live. Constant heat, sunshine and ocean fantasy are enough to make most people happy.

Swimming in the ocean is a big challenge, especially for people who do not live here, because the waves are very powerful and can roll over an adult person. During some days it is forbidden to go swimming because of the power of waves and currents. I was thrilled by the ocean noise with which I met for the first time in my life. These were such powerful blows that could even wake me up during those quiet mornings. Morning along the Atlantic in Rio had a special charm. Through the misty veil loomed the city and the ocean retreated at low leaving behind broken shells, driftwood and the occasional obligatory flip-flops. Speaking of flip-flops, it’s something that Cariocas wear as soon as they can walk. Interestingly, Brazilians produce high quality and cheap flip-flops. Nothing else is worth putting on because of the sand. Flip-flops are the most practical and easiest to clean when leaving the beach.

Along the beach of Barra, where we lived, Rio is famous for several huge sandy beaches: the most populous and most famous Copacabana, Ipanema about which Sinatra sang and Prainha. Each of them has its recognizable life. There are simple bars along the beaches, where you have to try coconut milk served and drank directly from a coconut. Also, there is the indispensable açaí. These are black-purple berries that are fruit of a palm tree. Served chilled and minced like ice cream. Açaí has many healing and detoxifying properties and everyone adores it. When it comes to tropical fruit, in Rio you can truly try real flavors of mango, pineapple, banana, avocado and other fruits. Their taste is fantastic and has nothing to do with tropical fruit that is sold in Europe. Even in appearance they are not the same, let alone taste. Succulence and aroma of these fruits is unique and long remembered.

As for beaches and the offer, there is also the globo, simple snack that can be purchased for one real (Brazilian currency) on the streets and beaches of the Rio. It is sold by street vendors who carry it in big bags, which is a testimony to its popularity. I would also mention a nutritional specificity of the resident of Rio. They eat a lot of meat, so there are numerous restaurants called the churrascaria in which the most diverse types of meat are served. These are family restaurants that are visited by large Brazilian families with a dozen or more members. The waiters circulate around the guest tables with huge plates of meat and cut what you choose. The popularity and attendance of these huge restaurants is also witnessed by the fact that for instance on Sunday you need to wait for a free table. But Cariocas have solved this problem by designing a room where families can sit and wait for the table.

When it comes to the most popular alcoholic drink in Rio, along with the cerveja (beer), there is of course the caipirinha, which is made of lime, cachaçe (sugar cane brandy), made of ice and sugar that you can order in all coffees along the many beaches. There is another specificity related to drinks and beaches. When you order a beer, it will be served to you in a small fridge on the beach or in a thermos bottle (a coated container) that keeps it cool while you are sitting at a coffee table. This solution is excellent, because if you keep in mind that 35 degrees Celsius is the usual temperature in Rio, it’s clear what would happen to your drink.

On Saturday mornings in each neighbourhood there are markets where you can find anything you want. The most interesting are fish and shellfish, but also palm fruit and nuts. You can also come across artists, mostly painters, who sell their works. The markets blend smells and colours, crowds of people, tourists and domestic traders. Warmth, welcome and smiles here are a daily constant.

Rio is crawling with tourists, especially at top locations such as Copacabana, the statue of Christ the Redeemer and the Sugarloaf. Christ the Redeemer Statue is located on Corcovado Hill and you can get to it by a combi-taxi. The ride takes about 20 minutes through a tropical forest where monkeys, parrots and unusual vegetation can be seen. As far as plants are concerned, it is interesting that, for example, a flower bird of paradise (strelitzia), which is sold expensively in Europe, is growing in Brazil in the wild, usually near the road. Christ the Redeemer Statue is truly an impressive work, it is 39.6 meters tall and weighs 700 tones. It’s so high that if you stand at its foot during a foggy day you will not see the tip.

Another famous attraction is a cable car running too the top of the Sugar Head and it offers incredible views of Rio and its beauty. Besides, it is a place where monkeys and exotic birds can be seen. During the first days of my stay in Rio I was surprised by great black birds that crossed the sky and looked like pterodactyls. Later, I learned that it was a tesoura᷃o bird from family of seagulls. There is another bird called grande kiskadee, which is very specific to Rio and has a related anecdote. Namely, cariocas use them in bringing up children. They tell their children that they have to be careful how they behave because they are always seen by the bird, because the bird sings the melody bemteevee which in Portuguese means “I’ve seen you”. Among other attractions in Rio de Janeiro you should not miss a visit to the Botanical Garden and the Lage Park.   

The botanical garden is a huge park with incredible types of flowers, cactus and trees. If you venture out a little deeper into the tropical forest, which is linked to the botanical garden, you will find yourself in a proper jungle. In this garden there is also an orhidarium with rare orchid species from Amazonian forests.

It is a special experience to climb to the highest peak of the Tijuca mountain, at the so-called Pico da Tijuca, which is 1021 meters high. There we experienced one beautiful and exciting event. Last few dozen meters of ascent were very steep stairs carved in the stone. After we examined it and determined it is safe to climb with a baby, we climbed it and let our daughter walk last 30 meters. When we reached the peak, people who were resting there on the view of our daughter walking to the top exploded in enthusiasm, cheering and applauding to our daughter “climbing achievement”. Walking through the jungle and exotic tropical vegetation, climbing to the top of the mountain in the company of playful monkeys and enthusiastic welcome on the top is one of the kind and highly memorable experience. From the top there is a beautiful view of the city and only the sounds of the jungle can be heard: screeching of monkeys, buzzing of insects, singing of birds and parrots. When we left the top, we changed our trail a bit and came across a beautiful waterfall. Here we met a number of friendly, mostly young people who offered us help since we were carrying a baby in a sling.

The spirit of Rio is incredible. Its streets are teeming with life. The most recognisable sign of Rio are surfers who ride waves from early morning until sunset. Surfers ride the city on bicycles or skateboards with surfboards under their arms. There are also street performers, lively talks with fishermen and joy at every turn. It is also worth highlighting the musical spirit of this people. One of the most popular Brazilian dances is the samba. There is also the so-called “Samba whistle”, Portuguese “samba apito”, which is traditionally made of coconut palm trees and is one of the souvenirs without which you don’t leave Rio de Janeiro. The life spirit and the rhythm of Rio may best be represented by “Escadaria Selarón”, one of the attractions of Rio. These are 250 stairs that were refurbished by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón in honor of the inhabitants of Rio. He covered them with ceramic tiles from around the world. The colorful and happy Selarón steps represent the spirit of the people living there.

Although at the time we stayed in Rio, the “Zika” virus that was carried by mosquitoes appeared, we did not get too excited about it because we avoided river lanes and parks with stagnant water. Our entire family was vaccinated against yellow fever, although Rio is not in the red zone for yellow fever, but we listened to a doctor’s recommendation in Dublin.

After five months spent in Rio, we were preparing to return to Ireland. Enriched by the wonderful places we visited, acquainted with the real jungle and a small piece of Latin America. Aside from our daughter starting to walk in Rio de Janeiro, a thing that made this town for me one of the most beautiful places in the world is certainly the warmth of the people living there.

After all, cities are made out of the people who live in them.